February 9, 2010 Power Rankings

by Ryan @ MRPR on February 9, 2010

UPDATE: No sooner after posing the question below as to why some restaurants can produce stellar appetizers alongside sub-par entrees, Lee Klein fortuitously provides an answer in his latest review of Douglas Rodriguez’s D. Rodriguez: “As is true with many other chefs, Rodriguez’s starters tend to outshine his entrées. This is partly owed to the nature of appetizers, which are inherently more conducive to bright innovation.”  There you go, one answer to the riddle.

Slight delay in getting these up today, usually I like to set it to auto-publish at the stroke of midnight.  Better late than never though.

Meanwhile, a mild rant: Lately I’ve been to a couple of Miami restaurants that absolutely knocked it out of the ballpark with appetizers and then failed to deliver with entrees of the same caliber.  So I’ve been thinking about why that is.  Clearly, the chefs are skilled.  They’ve put together small plates with a bevy of complex flavors.  They’ve shown that they possess some serious talent.  Yet when it comes time for the  larger portion, the traditional meat/poultry/fish in 6oz. portions, everything falls apart.  The flavors are off, the dish is overly complex or overcooked, the temperature is lukewarm to cold, etc.  I don’t know what to make of it and it bums me out because these are restaurants that, based on the appetizers, I’d be bragging about to all my friends.  While I’m at a loss to explain the reason for this phenomenon, I have at least penned a name for these establishments: “appe-teasers.”  Would you like some chowder with that corn?

(Last Week’s Rankings in Parentheses)

1. NAOE (1)

2. Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink (2)

3. Red Light (3)

4. Buena Vista Bistro (4)

5. Bin No. 18 (5)

6. Hiro’s Yakko-San (6)

7. Fratelli Lyon (7)

8. GastroPod (8)

9. Michy’s (9)

10. BLT Steak (10)

11. Bourbon Steak (11)

12. Azul (12)

13. Pizzavolante (13)

14. Sra. Martinez (14)

15. Mandolin Aegean Bistro (15)

16. Metro Bistro Cafe (16)

17. Latin Burger and Taco Truck (17)

18. Joe’s Stone Crab (18)

19. Sardinia (19)

20. Pacific Time (NR)

On the Bubble: Eos.

{ 3 comments }

buena vista February 10, 2010 at 11:32 am

oh just say the restaurant names with the subpar entrees. you know you want to.

Paris Restaurant Power Rankings February 14, 2010 at 11:15 am

You know that “appe-teasers” was an entire menu category at the Rascal House (RIP).

Ryan @ MRPR February 14, 2010 at 11:16 am

Haha. I should have assumed it was. Those clever rascals.

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